Shopping in Bishkek

Just one of the many souvenir stands in Tsum

Bishkek Shopping: A Complete Guide

Published: March 30, 2022

Bishkek brims with shopping outlets. From large shopping malls to tiny kiosks and its traditional bazaars, from antiques to the latest fashions, this guide hopes to introduce you to some of the best opportunities that students on SRAS programs in Bishkek have found!

This resource is part of the much larger SRAS Guide to Living in Bishkek.

 

General Directory

Groceries

General Shopping: You can get most things you’ll need at Frunze, a large grocery store on the first floor of Vefa Shopping Center. Globus (many locations all over town) or Alma in TsUM have the largest selection of food in western style supermarket formats. Discount stores include Narodniy and 7 Dnei.

Specialty Shopping: Berlin specializes in imports from Europe and the US (think Tabasco sauce, European beers, ranch dressing). For vegetarian and health foods, try Ecoland (just across the street from London School) or Goin, a Chinese market where you can buy tofu, soy sauce, produce, and lots of loose-leaf teas. Tofu is also readily available at most bazaars and other helpful items like affordable dairy-free milk can be found at Globus, Alma, or 7 Дней. For any other tips on eating and shopping meat-free in Bishkek, check here.

Malls and Bazaars

See our Packing Guide for things you should bring with you.

For higher-end clothing and shoes, try boutiques nestled into the colonnade near Ala-Too square. In addition to Vefa and TsUM, you might also try Karavan for shopping malls. Asia Mall is also a new, westernized mall with a luxury Frunze grocery store on the bottom floor and many nicer shops above. Dordoi Plaza is a fairly new and upscale mall.

The bazaars are favorites of the locals for having generally higher quality products at lower prices. They tend to offer just about everything – from fresh produce and meat to electronics, clothing, and construction materials. They are also considerably removed from what most westerners are used to in terms of consumer culture and thus make for unique cultural experiences for students as well.

If you want to hone your bargaining skills, head to Osh Bazaar or Orto-Sai Bazaar which offer a whole bunch of things: clothes, shoes, cheap plastic goods, DVDs that may or may not be pirated, and souvenirs. Dordoi Bazaar is another option – and is Central Asia’s largest bazaar.

 

Electronics

The Planeta Elektroniki has some electronics and offers computer repair. There are several small electronic stores in Vefa and TsUM has almost a whole floor devoted to electronics. There is an authorized Apple retailer in town too. For everyday electronic needs (phone chargers, USB cords, power strips), large grocery stores and most bazaars will have everything for your more basic needs. For kitchen appliances and home electronics try stores like grocery stores like Globus, the aforementioned Planeta Elektroniki, or (you guessed it) the bazaars.

 

Arts and Crafts

Arts and crafts supplies can be found at large western supermarkets like Globus or at the school supply shops and stalls in the underground passageways/pedestrian crossways at the intersections of Chuy and Sovetskaya (Baitik Baatira) near TsUM and the Ala-Too square.

 

Books

Raritet is the city’s largest bookstore, with maps and a few English-language books, plus English-Russian dictionaries. There are cheaper Russian-language books on the fourth floor of TsUM. Bookingham is a small bookstore/stationary store near London School.

Souvenirs

Having fallen in love with the local culture, you are bound to want to take something tangible home to show your friends and family who likely know next to nothing of this small but incredible country. The fourth floor of TsUM and the second floor of Beta Stores at Chui 150 have convenient, if expensive souvenirs. Head to Osh Bazaar for best prices and selection.

 

Shopping Reviews

 

Osh Bazaar (as a cultural experience)

Today I decided that I needed to experience something that I have long wanted to. Today I decided to go to my first real bazaar in Central Asia, and frankly, in the entire world. As a little boy, like anyone else, I had musings of traveling to the orient, filled with far-away people speaking strange languages, hustling and bustling, selling, bartering and buying anything they could. I imagined this electricity in the air and constant movement. In essence I pictured a bazaar to be the beating heart of any South/Central/West Asian city. The bazaar I went to is called Ош Базары in Kyrgyz and Ошский Базар in Russian. It also does not have a proper street address. This is not so uncommon in Kyrgyzstan and most of the locals do not find this strange. Certainly any cab driver will know exactly what you mean if you just tell him you want to go to Ош Базары.

It’s about 3 km west of city center on пр. Чуй and most stalls open from sun up to sun down.

On the cab ride over to the Ош Базары/Ошский Базар (Osh Bazaar), it would be dishonest to say I wasn’t at least slightly worried that it wouldn’t be all I pictured as the romanticized oriental bazaar from my childhood dreams. My worries were all short-lived, because everything I saw superseded my expectations.

some of the shop fronts
Some of the shop fronts.

I left the dorms at around one, and snow was falling from the sky. There was a slight breeze that caused the snow to fall diagonally, which for some reason added to the theatricality and excitement I felt. I hopped a cab right outside school and told him where I wanted to go. The cabbie and myself both agreed on an even 200 som ($3.93) for the price to get me there. After a quick ride over, I noticed the closer and closer we got to the bazaar, the more and more people I was seeing. I was excited. I paid the fare, hopped out and headed toward the bazaar. The first thing I immediately noticed was the temperature. While it was a brisk 5 degrees Fahrenheit today in Bishkek (nothing a Buffalo boy like me can’t handle) I noticed that even though the market space was mostly outdoors, it got warmer and warmer as I got deeper into the bazaar. It was probably due to the narrow corridors, abundance of people, and fires everywhere that created a “heat bowl”, so to speak.

There was everything here, and it was everything that I imagined. From traditional Uzbek clothing, to traditional Kyrgyz rugs, to Kyrgyz military surplus gear, to power tools, to a seemingly endless emporium of dried fruits and foods where everyone was trying to get you to buy what they were selling. And this was only in the first few minutes of me being there. These people are tough, and I love that. There are elderly women who work selling items at the bazaar and probably stand outside all day in the weather, even if it is 5 degrees or slightly warmer. It is an entirely fast-paced experience. People are constantly pushing past you trying to get where they need to get to.

This was not grocery shopping as we imagine it in the West, where we go to an immaculate super market, with relaxing music playing, where we have ample amounts of personal space and everything we purchase is wrapped in some sort of sterile container. Not in the slightest. This is way more fun. There is a constant struggle inside the bazaar. Heck, I felt like I was in a competition just walking through there, and I loved it.

I would love to be able to explain how to find your way inside the bazaar, but truth be told I mostly just wandered, and I don’t think I could have found direction in there if I tried. It is a labyrinth of narrow corridors and walkways, each with different sections that had their own sections within them that fanned out like the delta of a river, which led into other sections and corridors of their own. At one point, when I was looking for a place to buy Kyrgyz rugs, I stumbled into the section with women’s clothes. I felt slightly out of place, so I started walking quicker than I would normally, being the only male there. I ended up in a large section for women’s underwear and lingerie, and I was the only male there, and I was getting some funny looks. I decided to just head back the way I came with my tail between my legs. Eventually finding the area with rugs, kalpaks, and all other sorts of traditional Kyrgyz goods, I bought myself a nice little set of two rugs, together 1000 som ($19.63) and tried to find the way out. After I realized finding direction was futile, I decided to just pick a direction and walk straight until I found an exit. This worked.

After hopping another cab with a friendly cabbie named Osman, I studied the nice little rugs I bought. In all honesty, I felt like a kid again. I felt like Marco Polo or some explorer who decided to go and spend time in the orient. Today was a good day.

– Nick Cappuccino

 

Osh Bazaar (for souvenirs)

There are two major bazaars in Bishkek, Osh and Dordoi. Both are to the north, but Dordoi is farther from the London School (though also much larger). I never made it to Dordoi in my time in Bishkek, but Osh has everything you need when looking for souvenirs. It’s easy to get to Osh — just wait for one of the many marshrutkas that advertise Osh as one of their destinations. It’s about a 20-30 minute journey from the London School, and you can keep track of where you are with the handy 2GIS app. Osh Bazaar is huge and overwhelming, and you’ll know when you’ve arrived. Stands with bread and other food, covered by umbrellas, line the street. You have to walk past fruit and clothing stands to find the aisles with souvenirs. Everything in Osh is loosely clustered by the type of item (food, clothes, home improvement items, military gear, etc). Many souvenir stands are together, but their clusters are spread across many aisles.

Osh Bazaar has the cheapest souvenirs in town. You can find tons of different magnets, keychains, and other trinkets. There are boxes in the shapes of yurts (everything is available in the shape of a yurt) for just 100 som ($1.40). You can also purchase traditional clothing and felt carpets or wallhangings. There are traditional keepsakes like postcards, and more unusual ones like horse whips. If you like collecting patches, the military section has all kinds of patches and even some Soviet pins. You can get a Kyrgyz flag patch for 50-100 som ($0.70-1.40). For history buffs, Soviet hats can also be found at Osh. Even if you aren’t big on finding souvenirs, walking around and seeing what the stands at Osh have to offer is fun and can fill up your whole day.

Besides the sheer number of gifts to peruse, another benefit to Osh is the option to haggle. Now, I can’t give good tips on negotiating prices because I was far to passive to do anything beyond question the prices of of several items, but other students on my trip successfully haggled the prices of hats and slippers. Negotiating down the price of an 80 som keychain probably isn’t worth it and won’t be terribly successful, but if you’re buying pricier items or purchasing in bulk, you can haggle by offering prices back and forth.

Keep in mind that not all stands are open on all days – and seem to keep their own schedules. I went back on a Monday to finish up buying gifts, and only one stand with souvenirs was open. So if you want to explore everything that Osh has to offer, it’s better to be done on the weekend when all of the stalls are open. You’ll have to brave throngs of people, but if your mission is to find perfect Kyrgyz keepsakes, it’s worth fighting through the people. Plus, you get to experience what it’s like to shop at a Kyrgyz bazaar, where you see residents of Bishkek shopping for their everyday needs.

– Daphne Letherer

Tsum (for souvenirs)

I stumbled across the top floor of Tsum by pure chance. My friend and I decided to shop around Tsum because we were in the area, and we found that the entire top floor is dedicated to souvenirs. Tsum is easier to get to than Osh and far more relaxed, but everything is generally more expensive. However, it is abandoned compared to Osh, so if crowds aren’t amoung your favorite things, Tsum might be a good alternative. Like at Osh, the stands in Tsum have an abundance of keychains, magnets, and other yurt-themed curios. The women working the stands will often pick up something and point out that it is in the shape of or sports a yurt. Things like keychains and magnets can be purchased for Osh-comparable prices at Tsum, though there aren’t quite as many options. Anything that is made of felt can be purchased for less at Osh, such as boxes, hats, or slippers.

Tsum has a couple stands of Soviet things. Where Osh mostly has Soviet military gear, Tsum has everything from pins to artwork to household items. If you’re interested in finding cool Soviet gear, Tsum is worth a visit. I purchased a Soviet pin for Bishkek for just 200 som ($2.85). At these stands, you can also find interesting things like work from modern artists. Small line art or watercolor drawings can be bought for 400-600 som ($5.70-8.50).

Regardless of where you end up going for souvenirs in Bishkek, there are plenty of small, affordable keepsakes. However, there isn’t much for kids. I ended up giving my younger cousins leftover som, and most of my relatives received a magnet. But I still had fun going around the city and sifting through the stands that were chock full of colorful mementos.

Entrance to Tsum

– Daphne Letherer

Dordoi Plaza (w/ Chinese Cultural Event)

Dordoi Plaza opened in Bishkek about a year ago. It’s a shopping mall cousin to Dordoi Bazaar, which is Central Asia’s largest bazaar and owned by the same Kyrgyz company.

Bishkek has seen several new malls opened in the past couple of years. Dordoi Plaza is the newest of them all and is located in Bishkek’s north-east corner. As a new mall, it has attracted quite a crowd.

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An aerial view of the event

Also increasingly common in Kyrgyzstan and across Eurasia are events that showcase Chinese culture. As Chinese investment has spread, China has also invested in cultural diplomacy and often supports such events.

On Sunday, September 22, I was at Dordoi while a “Charming Beijing” event was held. This is the official tourism campaign currently being organized by Beijing’s city government. The event was held in the mall’s center and was visible as soon as you entered the mall.

The event was highly interactive and included several giveaways. Giving away free items is something that we see much more of in the US. It’s much rarer in Central Asia and other parts of the world in general. In part, that is probably what made this event so successful. It was busy the entire time I was at the mall, which was over the course of a few hours.

For instance, after entering through Chinese-style red arches, the first table had a bunch of goodie bags with “Charming Beijing” written on them. They were going quickly. Therefore, I didn’t think I would receive one.

Other tables were set up with stations where you could design and paint your own lantern, paint a Chinese character using stencils, and try on traditional Chinese outfits. While people were checking out these activities, an event host was making announcements from a stage at the front of the event. He introduced each new performer and raffled off prizes. Performances included singers singing in Russian, Kyrgyz, and Chinese.

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Me dressed up and smiling in Chinese garb

There were also informational posters lining the event space’s perimeters. These showed famous Beijing landmarks and information about them.

At some point I decided that I really wanted a picture in traditional Chinese clothing. Some of the people running the event helped me to properly put on the outfit and headpiece. One of the event staff then came to photograph me. I was instructed as to how to pose and he said the only condition was that I smile widely.

After trying this on, I spoke to another event worker who had one of the Charming Beijing bags hanging from her shoulder. I inquired as to what the bag’s contents were. She was would give me a bag if I told her what I liked most about the event. I liked that it was a cultural event and I thought that trying on the traditional Chinese outfit was the best part.

She gave me the bag and I inspected its contents, which turned out to be tourism pamphlets. Interestingly, half were in Russian, and the other half in English. A Russian pamphlet covered places to visit in Beijing, including a subway map and routes to visit them. Another explained how to get a VAT tax refund after shopping in Beijing. The English pamphlets included sites inside and outside of Beijing. Another covered medical tourism for Chinese traditional medicine. The last told about religious sites and popular tourist attractions.

Although I had never considered going to Beijing as a tourist before, this event did make me much more interested in traveling to Beijing to explore its culture and historical sites. The event was an interesting use of cultural diplomacy as there are currently movements against Chinese investment into Kyrgyzstan and issues with China’s “re-education” of Uighur Muslims. Kyrgyzstan also has a population of Uighur Muslim and is itself a majority-Muslim nation. Despite these geopolitical tensions, however, the local Kyrgyz in mall seemed to be enjoying the well-organized, eye-catching, and very friendly cultural event.

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The goody bag given away at the event and its inside contents

 

This resource is part of the much larger SRAS Guide to Living in Bishkek.

About the author

Nick Cappuccino

Nick Cappuccino is currently a junior at CUNY Hunter College in New York City, majoring in Russian language, and double minoring in Geography and German language. Nick has also been studying Persian Farsi for the past two years with instructors from New York City’s ABC language exchange, and Turkish for one year with instructors from New York City’s Ataturk School at the United Nations. He has also studied Russian language at Indiana University’s SWSEEL summer language workshop. Nick is doing his semester abroad with SRAS in Bishkek Kyrgyzstan, where he is studying Russian and Tajik with a Challenge Grant.

View all posts by: Nick Cappuccino

Daphne Letherer

Daphne grew up in Indiana and is a double major in Russian Studies and Global and International Studies at the College of Wooster in Ohio. She is studying Russian and Central Asian culture in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, for five weeks this summer. She aims to improve her Russian in an immersive environment, to explore a lesser-known country that is bursting with beautiful scenery, and to understand better how our beautiful planet works and how people live their lives each day. She intends to explore as much of our world as possible!

View all posts by: Daphne Letherer

SRAS Wikis

SRAS Wikis are maintained collectively by SRAS Challenge Grant Writers and Home and Abroad Scholars. They are meant to be continually updated repositories of information created for students and by students to best suit each SRAS location.

Program attended: SRAS Staff Member

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